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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Fan issue



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      06-19-2013, 06:57 PM   #1
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Fan issue

My fan is on high all the time. From the time I turn car on until I turn it off. Here is a clip.

http://youtu.be/JK3gbnsB94I
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      06-19-2013, 07:04 PM   #2
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Perhaps you accidentally switched on the max cool function on your JB4? Have a look at their command center spreadsheet to check...
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      06-19-2013, 07:09 PM   #3
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Perhaps its time for a new water pump...?
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      06-19-2013, 07:19 PM   #4
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Does it only do this with the AC on? If so, does the rad fan speed change when you change the AC fan speed? How hot is it where you are?
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      06-19-2013, 07:24 PM   #5
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Codes?
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      06-19-2013, 08:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlbrooks18
Codes?
No codes.


It's about 80-90 degrees.


The max cool feature on the jb4 is not on.


Car had the water pump replaced at 57k miles and now it had 80k. I'm a month out of warranty.
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      06-19-2013, 08:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oma3710 View Post
No codes.


It's about 80-90 degrees.


The max cool feature on the jb4 is not on.


Car had the water pump replaced at 57k miles and now it had 80k. I'm a month out of warranty.
how are you reading the codes, pretty sure most water pump related codes are 'shadow' codes that cannot be read using jb4 or cobb ap.

Does it only do this with the AC on? If so, does the rad fan speed change when you change the AC fan speed?

Check out a similar thread I created the other day (and went and posted it to the completely wrong forum...)

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854447
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      06-19-2013, 08:57 PM   #8
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Sounds like a waterpump issue.

Had my fan stuck going full blast last week, sure enough, threw two codes within a day.

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      06-19-2013, 08:58 PM   #9
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It's with the ac off. The car isn't overheating at all. The temps are the usual 230-250.
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      06-19-2013, 09:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oma3710 View Post
It's with the ac off. The car isn't overheating at all. The temps are the usual 230-250.
What is your coolant temp at? Can you check with jb4 and laptop? If not, there is some 'secret' menu you can access what will display it on your dash.

You are saying this will happen with AC off, right from a cold start? Or does it take a few minutes after a cold start for fan (no AC) to come on?

you need to try pull the shadow codes to see if they mention water pump.

It is possible your coolant temp sensor is buggered. If it happens right from a cold start, I might lean that way. As the coolant would not have time to overheat. Unless maybe the system knows the water pump is not working properly and throws the fan on right away cause of that. I'm just thinking out loud here.
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      06-19-2013, 09:27 PM   #11
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The fan comes on from a cold start. Tomorrow I will connect my pc to see if I'm getting shadow codes.
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      06-20-2013, 06:06 AM   #12
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If it is the water pump should I go with an aftermarket one. If so, which one?
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      06-20-2013, 06:18 AM   #13
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It's nearly 100% bad water pump. I threw zero codes when mine went. The only indication was high fan and sluggish performance till I finally went Chernobyl. Luckily CPO covered.

The only other time it was on full blast was when I cranked my ol fueling to 100% and got undershoot codes and tune box detected of course this caused soft limp mode.

Good luck!
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      06-20-2013, 07:00 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xi Kevo
It's nearly 100% bad water pump. I threw zero codes when mine went. The only indication was high fan and sluggish performance till I finally went Chernobyl. Luckily CPO covered.

The only other time it was on full blast was when I cranked my ol fueling to 100% and got undershoot codes and tune box detected of course this caused soft limp mode.

Good luck!
Should I go with aftermarket or stock? They cost the same thing.
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      06-20-2013, 07:24 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oma3710
Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xi Kevo
It's nearly 100% bad water pump. I threw zero codes when mine went. The only indication was high fan and sluggish performance till I finally went Chernobyl. Luckily CPO covered.

The only other time it was on full blast was when I cranked my ol fueling to 100% and got undershoot codes and tune box detected of course this caused soft limp mode.

Good luck!
Should I go with aftermarket or stock? They cost the same thing.
If it were me, I would go OEM. My pump lasted 87k. I won't have the car by time it fails again.
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      06-20-2013, 07:44 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oma3710 View Post
Should I go with aftermarket or stock? They cost the same thing.
at least on ECS, the VDO Pump is nearly $100 cheaper.
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      06-20-2013, 07:46 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotorocious
Quote:
Originally Posted by oma3710 View Post
Should I go with aftermarket or stock? They cost the same thing.
at least on ECS, the VDO Pump is nearly $100 cheaper.
I might be able to get oem 20% cheaper.
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      06-20-2013, 07:48 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oma3710 View Post
I might be able to get oem 20% cheaper.
Whichever is cheapest. I've only found that the "genuine" OEM parts and Non OEM are typically made by the same company and not worth paying extra for.
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      06-20-2013, 07:53 AM   #19
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Shouldn't my pump still be under warranty if it only has 23k miles???
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      06-20-2013, 08:05 AM   #20
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I do think it's a little strange that you have had to replace your water pump a second time only after 23k. The new pumps are supposed to have a bit more longevity. Do you know the part number of the pump the dealer put in your car the last time? The new pump is part #11517632426. I would make sure that's the one they put in your car. Also if you had the pump replaced under warranty do you know if they replaced the thermostat either time they changed the water pump? Most dealers will only replaced the failed part under warranty, which in most cases, is just the water pump. If your thermostat is bad it could be stuck open (or closed).
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      06-20-2013, 08:09 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oma3710 View Post
I might be able to get oem 20% cheaper.
^^Be sure to check the part number. I've seen sites selling the old pump (and remanufactured pumps) for cheap. Best stick to the new OEM pump (part #11517632426 and the new style set screws #11517602123).
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      06-20-2013, 08:32 AM   #22
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I'm going to be hooking up laptop to see if I get shadow codes. I want to be sure the water pump is the problem.
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