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      10-03-2013, 09:46 AM   #1
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Brake Fluid?

To those of you that have flushed out the BMW brake fluid and replaced with something with a higher boiling point - what did you use?
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      10-03-2013, 12:29 PM   #2
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ATE, though I ended up back to OE since I had the dealer flush them again. IMO ATE is the best bang for the buck. At least on paper.
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      10-03-2013, 01:17 PM   #3
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Motul RBF600
This what I've run in the past and will be flushing mine out to shortly.
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      10-03-2013, 04:08 PM   #4
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From least to most expensive, ATE, Motul 600, and Castrol SRF.
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      06-26-2014, 12:14 PM   #5
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2014 335i  [9.74]
Is one bottle enough for a complete flush?
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      06-26-2014, 12:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennQNYC View Post
Is one bottle enough for a complete flush?
No, 2 are required if you're changing from stock to something else. Otherwise you'll just have new in the reservoir and old in the lines and calipers - right where you don't want it.

After that, just run 1 bottle through the system every 6 months or after every big track weekend.

BTW I went with RBF600 - works like a champ
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      07-12-2014, 09:37 AM   #7
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Anyone have a DIY/tutorial or some tools that would make this easier?
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      07-14-2014, 12:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Anyone have a DIY/tutorial or some tools that would make this easier?
I posted something here
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...&postcount=149

The Motive power bleeder is awesome for 1 man bleeding
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      12-15-2014, 01:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNLBC View Post

Motul RBF600
This what I've run in the past and will be flushing mine out to shortly.
We've used and stocked Motul RBF for years and swear by it! RBF600 for street cars that see track time, 660 for dedicated track machines.
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      03-27-2015, 07:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennQNYC View Post
Is one bottle enough for a complete flush?
Quote:
Originally Posted by utenigma View Post
No, 2 are required if you're changing from stock to something else. Otherwise you'll just have new in the reservoir and old in the lines and calipers - right where you don't want it.

After that, just run 1 bottle through the system every 6 months or after every big track weekend.

BTW I went with RBF600 - works like a champ
2 bottles of Motul is 1L.

ATE is sold in 1L bottles.
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      05-01-2015, 11:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utenigma View Post
I posted something here
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...&postcount=149

The Motive power bleeder is awesome for 1 man bleeding
+1 on the Motive Power bleeder, but get the black label with the aluminum cap and swivel fitting. Best gadget in my garage and worth $70. Can use 2 different methods for bleeding. Cleans easily with Denatured Alcohol from hardware store.

+1 also on the RBF 600. Have also used Motul 5.1 for DD with the occasional HPDE.
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      07-20-2015, 07:02 PM   #12
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I found one bottle of RBF was more than enough to completely flush the system in my F30 w/ M Sport brakes. I actually have 10% or so remaining.

In the end I did actually use two bottles. I only achieved perfect hydraulics after flushing twice with activating the ABS/traction control a few times between bleeding sessions. I drove a week or so between bleeding sessions making sure I get the valve block in the brake system flushed out.

Along with SS lines, the M Sport brakes feel awesome with a proper bleed.
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      09-19-2015, 11:45 PM   #13
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Don't use ATE racing Blue, it will make a lot of noise from the brake pedal.
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      09-21-2015, 10:19 AM   #14
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How?
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That's a lot of white
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      09-30-2015, 09:18 AM   #15
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How bad does the OEM fluid get with normal/inspired everyday driving? Just had my first fluid service last week after 3 years..........
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      09-30-2015, 05:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitoco View Post
How bad does the OEM fluid get with normal/inspired everyday driving? Just had my first fluid service last week after 3 years..........
Brake fluid doesn't go "bad" per-se, it absorbs water over time. As the brake fluid gets more and more water in it, it's boiling point goes down. Eventually even moderate braking loads can cause the fluid to boil, the brake pedal goes to the floor and you have no brakes.

OEM fluid is less hydrophilic than racing brake fluid - the trade off is racing brake fluid has a higher dry boiling point

Meaning racing brake fluid is much better when new, resists boiling at much higher temperatures, but absorbs water faster making it last less time.

BMW recommends changing the OEM fluid every 2 years for safety reasons. If you're going with a racing brake fluid, figure every 6 months.
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      10-01-2015, 02:58 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utenigma View Post
Brake fluid doesn't go "bad" per-se, it absorbs water over time. As the brake fluid gets more and more water in it, it's boiling point goes down. Eventually even moderate braking loads can cause the fluid to boil, the brake pedal goes to the floor and you have no brakes.

OEM fluid is less hydrophilic than racing brake fluid - the trade off is racing brake fluid has a higher dry boiling point

Meaning racing brake fluid is much better when new, resists boiling at much higher temperatures, but absorbs water faster making it last less time.

BMW recommends changing the OEM fluid every 2 years for safety reasons. If you're going with a racing brake fluid, figure every 6 months.
Great reply!

So, why did my car not want it til now? Is the 2-year interval something new or depending on market region maybe?
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      10-03-2015, 04:17 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitoco View Post
Great reply!

So, why did my car not want it til now? Is the 2-year interval something new or depending on market region maybe?
Years ago, BMW used to have yearly changes recommended on brake fluids. Now they changed it to two or even three years. This is not saying anything about the brake fluide "safety" however.
BMW uses glycol based brake fluides DOT4. Don't use DOT5 or you will kill your brake system!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

As written the fluid will lower the wet boiling point over the time. You can test the brake fluid boiling point with special equipment.
In any driving/braking conditions you want you brake fluid NOT to reach the boiling point. This will cause gas bulbs in the system and immediate brake power loss. When the fluide cools down, brake will work fine again.
On regular street use a boiling point of 180°Celsius could still be fine, but on heavy track use it could be that this is already to low.
The bad thing is: If you find out, it could be too late

The change interval is good for normal use, but if you track your car, you may want to control the boiling point from time to time.

It is also important to have the brake fluid reservoir closed and sealed. Avoid that water drops get into the system (i.e. from cleaning the engine with high water pressure)
Besides Boiling point corrosion and viscosity are other factors, why brake fluids need to be changed. (as wiki explains)
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      03-04-2016, 01:44 PM   #19
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RBF FTW

+1, I even used 660, but generally 600 is more suitable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNM3 View Post

Motul RBF600
This what I've run in the past and will be flushing mine out to shortly.
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      03-17-2016, 09:45 PM   #20
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I push a new bottle of Motul through my car every time I switch summer/winter tires; and before and after any time the car goes on track. Sometimes I'll rotate MTL Blue just so the color change (Motul is clear) proves I pushed the old juice out.
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      03-22-2016, 10:55 AM   #21
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Lots of people I know love the Castrol SRF because they change it less, I've been very happy with 600 RBF.
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      07-14-2016, 12:57 PM   #22
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Anyone recommend a good oil for hot Arizona summers? It gets upwards of 120 here and we have to change oil more frequently because of it.
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