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      11-12-2015, 09:20 PM   #1
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Suggestion for brake bleeding

Hello guys. I am about to receive my new wheels. And I just got brake fluid indicator on the idrive. Car is driven 6k in 2 years and always garage kept. So I want to DIY the brake flush with the hand pump bleeder that I just got from Harbor Freight today.

Some people re bleeding when the master reservoir cap is on some do when it is off. Logically it flows better when the cap is off. So how should I do?

And does it worth to get bmw original fluid? I know the differential fluid is worth to get! I am not sure about the DOT 4.

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      11-13-2015, 07:01 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaNGRia View Post
Hello guys. I am about to receive my new wheels. And I just got brake fluid indicator on the idrive. Car is driven 6k in 2 years and always garage kept. So I want to DIY the brake flush with the hand pump bleeder that I just got from Harbor Freight today.

Some people re bleeding when the master reservoir cap is on some do when it is off. Logically it flows better when the cap is off. So how should I do?

And does it worth to get bmw original fluid? I know the differential fluid is worth to get! I am not sure about the DOT 4.

Attachment 1317416
Attachment 1317417
That pump is a piece of junk don't waste your time. I have one and it won't even pull a vacuum. I would suggest a pressure bleeder from a reliable brand. For the money your saving get a decent one.....
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      11-13-2015, 07:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaseM3 View Post
That pump is a piece of junk don't waste your time. I have one and it won't even pull a vacuum. I would suggest a pressure bleeder from a reliable brand. For the money your saving get a decent one.....
I found the reason. why it wont suck proparly is the bottle cover doesnt lock too good so it doesnt seal without pressing. What i did is i used hair tie to get the solid pressure and it worked (look at the first picture)

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      11-13-2015, 07:48 AM   #4
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I went to the auto store for the brake fluid and i got 2 option. Dot 4 LV and super dot 4. I looked the original fluid. It says LV for latest technology so i got the LV. ECSTunning provides super dot 4 for m3s. Whats the deal?

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      11-13-2015, 08:24 AM   #5
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Honestly I would go with the BMW brake fluid. It really is great stuff and the price is comparable to all the other highfalutin stuff. The ALWAYS have it in stock at the local dealer.
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      11-13-2015, 08:29 AM   #6
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I've been bleeding brakes on all of my cars for 10 years with the traditional 2 man method. I bought that pump ecs sells for the euro cars and it worked so well I was borderline shock. I had to use it on my clutch too because I replaced the slave cylinder and it worked perfectly on that too. I'm never going back to foot pumping.
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      11-13-2015, 10:04 AM   #7
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The Schwaben one or the Motive Products one? I'm interested because the one I got from BavAuto is on it's way out.
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      11-13-2015, 02:22 PM   #8
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I bought this brake bleeder and I can't say enough good things about it. I just open the bleed screw and have my wife continuously pump the brakes while I top off the brake fluid. You can also use it to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir.



http://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Cable-...=brake+bleeder
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      11-13-2015, 04:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takrdown View Post
The Schwaben one or the Motive Products one? I'm interested because the one I got from BavAuto is on it's way out.
The Schwaben. It's like magic haha
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      11-13-2015, 06:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaseM3 View Post
That pump is a piece of junk don't waste your time. I have one and it won't even pull a vacuum. I would suggest a pressure bleeder from a reliable brand. For the money your saving get a decent one.....
Now i see how piece of junk it is I sucked all the old fluid from reservoir. And then add the fresh one to the top then i remove the RR wheel and attached this hose to the caliper. When i use my finger and hold the hose this gun holds the pressure without an issue. But when i connect to the caliper (even i tried plumbing tape to make solid) It does not hold the air pressure. So i unscrewed the bleeding screw and continuesly pump it no lock it just doesnt vacuum it. So www.ecstuning.com 😀 ordered EUROPEAN pressure tank with the bleeding bottle. After this junk process i put everything back together and start the car, brakes looks normal but i am sure it is little bit messed up so will see when i get this proper tools!
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      11-13-2015, 06:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracin View Post
The Schwaben. It's like magic haha
I order that one. It looks more professional than other
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      11-13-2015, 11:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaNGRia View Post
I order that one. It looks more professional than other
Don't forget to pump the brakes after you're all set and done. It's a scary experience if you don't do so.
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      11-16-2015, 08:14 AM   #13
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Since it hasn't been mentioned..

You have to do the clutch too! It shares the brake fluid.
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      11-16-2015, 10:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdamore View Post
Since it hasn't been mentioned..

You have to do the clutch too! It shares the brake fluid.
I read that. It shares the same fluid. So is that the same process like brakes? And what do you suggest?
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      11-16-2015, 12:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaNGRia View Post
I read that. It shares the same fluid. So is that the same process like brakes? And what do you suggest?
Its the same process as brakes for the most part. Have to get under the car and remove the shield covering the trans.

I use the Motive pressure bleeder so its easy. Set the bleeder to 14PSI, open the bleeder valve, and wait until the new fluid start starts flowing out.
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      11-16-2015, 03:39 PM   #16
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I just ordered the Schwaben tank. So do you have any picture to show me this bleeding valve from your DIY? Thank you for your help
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdamore View Post
Its the same process as brakes for the most part. Have to get under the car and remove the shield covering the trans.

I use the Motive pressure bleeder so its easy. Set the bleeder to 14PSI, open the bleeder valve, and wait until the new fluid start starts flowing out.
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      11-16-2015, 04:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaNGRia View Post
I just ordered the Schwaben tank. So do you have any picture to show me this bleeding valve from your DIY? Thank you for your help
I recently pressure bled my brakes with the Schwaben. One thing I experienced was the fitting that goes on the fluid reservoir needed to be tightened rather harshly in order not to leak. In order to get a tight enough seal, I had to grab hold of the fluid reservoir so as not to apply a bunch of twist to it - it is a plastic part that is not strongly secured to the brake master. Be sure to check all around the fitting for leaks once you begin.
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      11-16-2015, 05:24 PM   #18
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Quote:
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I recently pressure bled my brakes with the Schwaben. One thing I experienced was the fitting that goes on the fluid reservoir needed to be tightened rather harshly in order not to leak. In order to get a tight enough seal, I had to grab hold of the fluid reservoir so as not to apply a bunch of twist to it - it is a plastic part that is not strongly secured to the brake master. Be sure to check all around the fitting for leaks once you begin.
Do u think would I go with the MOTIVE? Or u think urs was defective?
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      11-16-2015, 06:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaNGRia View Post
I just ordered the Schwaben tank. So do you have any picture to show me this bleeding valve from your DIY? Thank you for your help
Sorry.. no pictures! You'll have to do some searching for the DIY.

Test the bleeder to make sure it holds pressure before you start draining. Just pump it to 15psi and see if it holds for 10 min.

With the pressure tanks, you dont need to put the brake fluid in the tank. After you remove all the fluid from the reservoir ($.99 turkey baster), top up your reservoir with the new fluid, pressurize the tank, do one wheel, top up the reservoir, and repeat. This will avoid the clean up of the bleeder.

I have zero issues with the Motive. Good solid build.
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      11-16-2015, 07:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdamore View Post
Sorry.. no pictures! You'll have to do some searching for the DIY.

Test the bleeder to make sure it holds pressure before you start draining. Just pump it to 15psi and see if it holds for 10 min.

With the pressure tanks, you dont need to put the brake fluid in the tank. After you remove all the fluid from the reservoir ($.99 turkey baster), top up your reservoir with the new fluid, pressurize the tank, do one wheel, top up the reservoir, and repeat. This will avoid the clean up of the bleeder.

I have zero issues with the Motive. Good solid build.
Yes I did research and found out this :

http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_brake_bleed.shtml

But I did not get the STEP 9! Since we use the pressure tank. Why I am going to do the STEP 9!

Other then that I tried to bleed when I had this piece of crap hand pressure tool. And during that time, I did sucked all the old fluide from reservoir and put the new one. So do u think I should go ahead and just use the pressure tank top of it?
I did drive 3 miles after this process to test my new wheels! But I am sure it is still pretty new there!

So when u set the tank 15 psi, if there is no leak, is that going to stay 15 during bleeding in normal condition?

Last question will be, since I will not put any fluid in to the tank, each caliper is getting enough fluid from the reservoir? I just don't want to suck any air by accident!

I tired to change the order last minute from ecs, they said we already shipped it! Hope I will not get issue!
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      11-17-2015, 07:20 AM   #21
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Yeah.. step 8 and 9 seem a bit redundant if you dont allow air to ever get in. Good find though!

20 PSI seems excessive. It worked just fine at 15 PSI. Yeah, set it to 15 (or 20 if you want to follow the madrussian) and just let it sit for a few. Bottom line, your pressure testing the whole system for leaks. If you like what you see go ahead and start bleeding.

The reservoir will certainly hold enough to do a corner. I usually buy two liters and bleed more than is needed.

Post up some pictures when get to it!
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      11-17-2015, 08:01 AM   #22
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ECS has a video. Watch it and follow. Like someone else said, you really need to tighten the cap. I didn't and it leaked when I first pumped the bleeder. Just fill it up with brake fluid and get to work on it. I wouldnt bother trying to pressurize without fluid in the bleeder.

This thing is virtually dummy proof. I had my Dad watch it while I opened and closed thd bleeders just in case, but that wasn't necessary.
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