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06-03-2008, 08:05 AM | #1 |
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Cleaning your roadster...
I know this has been discussed before, but i was wondering if anyone knew of any online retailers that sold a nice car cleaning kit. What I am looking for is a big brush with a handle so I don't have to break my back washing this car every week. I am also looking for something that would make cleaning these wheels easier. I ALWAYS miss a spot and just can never get them to look completely clean.
also, what do you people do to clean your top besides using raggtop or whatever. The top just gets dirty and simply getting it wet is not enough. Any ideas? TIA! |
06-03-2008, 08:20 AM | #2 |
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If you are using any kind of a brush to wash your Black Z you shouldn't even be allowed to own a Z. The brush will mess up your paint big time. Just go to a car wash if your are going to use a brush and call it a day. You need to wash it with a wool mitt to protect the paint. The top can be vacuumed to get loose dirt and dust off it, then just rinse. Ragg Top and a very soft brush on the top, only if it the vacuum and rinse doesn't work. Iuse a mf rag and wash the wheels by hand, a soft paint brush to clean the holes.
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06-03-2008, 09:18 AM | #3 |
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Are you talking about those big brushes on a handle that you see at self-wash car bays? Please don't! Those might be justifiable if you had a pick-up truck or some other monstrosity!
Go get yourself as rc'z recommends, two mitts (either wool or microfibre) to do the wash. For the soft top, get a soft brush (I use a horsehair brush from the local shoe repair store that's used for suede) to brush the top off occasionally just to get the dust & debris out). Occasionally though you do need to wash with Raggtop or some other cleaner in combination with the soft brush to clean off light stains. For the wheels, I just use a wheel brush (you can get these at any car parts place) and a soft sponge. |
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06-03-2008, 09:54 AM | #4 |
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Oh ok, I have always washed my car by hand with a wool or microfiber mit. I have never taken my car to the car wash, I did not realize that the brush would scratch up the paint! guess my back will continue to ache for a while!
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06-03-2008, 12:36 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
There are many misconceptions out there about car washes and so I'll jump in here and try to dispel a few. First, those "brushes" in a carwash will not scratch your paint if used properly. In a reputable Self-Serve (or Coin op), we use real Hog Hair brush heads. They are about 10 times more expensive than what you guys typically buy (nylon haired brushes). Hog hair is softer than water based clearcoat paint and so will not scratch the car...as long as they are clean. So high pressure clean the head before using and make sure plenty of foam soap is dispensed to lubricate the brush and pull away the soil. Second, it does not take friction to clean a car (you can save your back). Cleaning is chemistry...so you use the right detergent for the soil and surface it's on. Reputable carwashes like mine use commercial detergents that are formulated and dispensed to clean the soils in your area. I happen to mostly use Simoniz brand with a few exceptions. Then there's the cleaning process. You need the right detergent, at the right temperature, followed by a dwell period (time for the soap to work) and then high pressure impact of water. What kind of soap...road grime needs an Alkaline soap. Wheels, chrome and glass use an acidic soap and some may have special blends. Use the right soap, dwell and rinse and you don't need to use a brush, sponge or mitt. The less you touch the better as soils typically get caught in the fibers of these and can cause micro scratches that in turn make the surface easier to stick on. I know you guys don't want to hear this, but the vast majority of home carwashers cause more damage to their paints than good. By far, men are the worst offenders and the most difficult to educate. Everyone thinks they have their own special ways to wash cars and I've heard them all. Like "I never use soap" or "You can't get the car clean without scrubbing” People bring in their own chemical or wash mitts and brushes thinking their better. Hell I got a guy a few weeks ago washing his truck with a bucket of gasoline and a wash mitt! Carwashing is not rocket science, but plain old chemistry. But there is always more to it than you might first think. Oh...BTW, microfiber cloths can scratch. We have stopped using them on surfaces such as speedo lenses and some interior trim as they were scratching them. AS far as buying stuff, stay with the good brans such as Meguiar’s and Mothers and you can usually pick the stuff up at detail and Auto supply places. Check on Youtube for detainling videos...some of the good production ones are helpful. My 2 cents...Big Leo
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06-03-2008, 01:47 PM | #7 |
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Good info. My poor car hasn't been loved in a long time...maybe over the weekend
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06-03-2008, 02:26 PM | #9 |
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BigLeo, I only take my Zed into the self carwash bay for touchless washing, i.e. I just spray on soapy water and rinse it off. I would never use any brushes or anything else found at a carwash to touch my car.
I know you say that the brushes you use are high quality, but do you clean them out totally after every single person uses them? It's not the brush itself that necessarily scratches, it's all the dirt and crap that's in them from people using them improperly or from simple accumulation. So someone could use the brush after several people had finished using it to clean their wheels and tires, brush a bunch of old mud off of their truck, or use it scrub at bird crap or tree sap. When I use my mitts and my own microfibre, I know where they've been and I know that they've been washed already. |
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06-03-2008, 03:40 PM | #10 |
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At a DIY car wash, it is up to the user to spray off the brush head. The owner will not spray off the brush head between users.
Most DIY spray washes have a "prewash" selection that uses lower pressure to apply a prewash soap. I let this sit for about 5 minutes. I then use the high pressure soap selection, then I follow up with the high pressure rinse. Last Fall, I detailed the car starting with a complete claying, then I polished using a Porter Cable random oscillating polisher, Poorboys SSR1 and SSR2. I then applied Klasse All-In-One and finally Klasse Glaze. The Klasse is a acrylic based sealant and glaze (not wax or silicone based). It is very durable. Since that time my three step spray cleaning has produced great results on my 2007 Imola Red M coupe. I dry it using a water blade for the glass, and a single purpose microfiber towel for the paint. I lightly draw the towel over the paint, I don't rub or apply any pressure. This absorbs all the water. I then use Maquires detail spray for the areas that need it, like around the door handles. If your DIY location has a "spot free rinse" selection, use that. It helps reduce any water spots. IMO if you start with well detailed and sealed paint, the touchless approach yields great results. Hope It Helps |
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