09-05-2020, 05:59 AM | #1 |
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Autocross - what do I need to change 2 wheels at a time?
2020 M4 CS.
I want to change 2 wheels, 1 side, at a time. Saving effort and time. This is what I think I need - any thoughts and suggestions on what I'm missing or alternatives? I will also likely add an impact wrench if all goes well. Trying not to lug a whole garage to the track if possible. - Jack - 1.5 ton aluminum floor jack https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton...num+floor+jack - BMW jack point adapter - 17mm non marring socket - Breaker Bar - Torque wrench - Wheel Wedge I think I also need a jack stand? Can I get by with a 2 ton? My concern is the U type points will damage the jack points. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks. |
09-05-2020, 07:00 AM | #2 |
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1. Use breaker bar to crack all bolts on one side.
2. Jack up car from the front jack point until both tires are off the ground (front will be higher than rear). 3. Use cordless impact gun to remove bolts. 4. Change wheel. 5. Use cordless impact gun to tighten bolts. 6. Repeat for other wheel. 7. Lower vehicle. 8. Torque bolts to spec. 9. Repeat other side. -- 1.5 ton Harbor freight aluminum jack will work great. You're not going under the car, so jack stands are not needed as long as the jack is good. That being said, it's good to have jack stands at the track in case you have to go under the car. The pit areas of tracks are always flat, so wedges aren't needed either, but again, it's good to have them. You can use a jack point adapter if you don't want to damage the jack points... but if you're tracking your car, who cares? They're cheap to replace. Besides, on the track you should be more worried about debris chipping your paint. -- These steps are useful at a track event, but if it's an autoX event, why not just drive to the autoX with the track wheels already on? |
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09-05-2020, 07:50 AM | #3 |
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Ive had great luck with HF products minus the 1.5t racing jack you linked. Had one crap out on me before and narrowly avoid disaster. They warrantied it but all I use it for now is to guide the strut on suspension jobs and not to hold the car up.
They are definitely less sturdy than the (heavier) steel jacks. |
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09-05-2020, 08:16 AM | #4 |
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I'd bring a breaker bar as a just in case, but just get a good cordless impact and zip them off once in the air. Breaker bar is really not necessary anymore for wheel removal.
No wheel wedge needed either if your jacking from the side (i would use the jack point behind the front wheel). Unless the lots you are in are not flat. |
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09-05-2020, 08:32 AM | #5 |
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I use that 1.5 ton aluminum harbor freight for track days because it’s only 33 lbs and I got a ton of other shit to carry like 4 tires and tools etc. The jack has a shitty lift height so make sure you have a low profile esco jack that does minimum 11” height (Model #10499), not the regular ones that do 13”. That’s if you want a jack stand ... I see it as a must if the jack fails.
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09-05-2020, 08:54 AM | #6 |
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An aluminum quality jack, cordless impact, and a good breaker bar.
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