Winterizing / Storing an M3

[Eurotrash8]

I have stored cars for the winter in the past and this is what I did

-Run fuel close to empty as possible, if not fuel stabalize the remaining.
-Roll down windows a bit
-Unplug neg on battery terminal.
-Sometimes I will jack up the car off the ground (flat spots on tires)

Am I missing or doing anything incorrect that anyone can chime in on?

TIA
GUYS

[valeram]

It is my everyday car so I will get myself a set of winter tires and wheels.

[03SG///M3]

I have always filled up the gas tank completely and then added gas stabilizer - stabil. I was told this is to avoid moisture in the gas tank which is not good. I also pull the battery and trickle charge it, wax exterior, clean the interior, shut off all vents in car, and put a car cover on it.

[Eurotrash8]

Originally Posted by 03SG///M3

I have always filled up the gas tank completely and then added gas stabilizer - stabil. I was told this is to avoid moisture in the gas tank which is not good. I also pull the battery and trickle charge it, wax exterior, clean the interior, shut off all vents in car, and put a car cover on it.

Ya I clean and cover it too....left those details out.

You put a trickle charger on the whole time it is being stored? Is that neccesary if the neg battery is unplugged?

[Radiation Joe]

Originally Posted by 03SG///M3

I have always filled up the gas tank completely and then added gas stabilizer - stabil. I was told this is to avoid moisture in the gas tank which is not good. I also pull the battery and trickle charge it, wax exterior, clean the interior, shut off all vents in car, and put a car cover on it.

+1 on the full tank.

[sparkyg]

I have heard that our fuel will spoil over time so it only has 2-3 month shelf life. I do agree that filling the tank is better than leaving it empty, less chance of condensation. I would still throw fuel stabilizer in there

I would also start the car a few times over the winter, can you take it out for a drive or anything?

In Cowtown there will be tons on winter drive M3's. If I get mine up here in Etown I am gonna winter drive it. Just get the winter tires and drive normal.

I don't know about unplugging the neg. terminal. That is a long time w/o power. Ask BMWCA maybe.

[SlammedR8]

Originally Posted by Eurotrash8

I have stored cars for the winter in the past and this is what I did

-Run fuel close to empty as possible, if not fuel stabalize the remaining.
WRONG. you should have a full tank to avoid condensation build up in your gas tank
-Roll down windows a bit
not necessary if you end up getting a battery maintainer (get a Battery Tender (trickle charger (sp?))
-Unplug neg on battery terminal.
not necessary either if you plan on putting the battery on a battery maintainer (Battery Tender is good)
-Sometimes I will jack up the car off the ground (flat spots on tires)
Just pump up the tires to their max pSI, and you wont get flat spots


TIA
GUYS

Thats what i'd do

[drburton]

Having a Boxster which has been stored over Minnesota winters, I have some experience with this. This was written by someone on a Boxster forum (don't recall who).

1. Change the oil just prior to storage. Oil absorbes moisture (a natural byproduct of combustion) and if old oil is left in the motor, moisture will evaporate out of the oil and condense on the engine internals causing corrosion. Also, oil becomes acidic with use and should be changed for this reason also. Change oil, start engine and run just long enough for the oil to circulate, then shut off for the season to prevent a buildup of moisture. If planning to change the tranny fluid in the coming season, it's also a good idea to do this now for basically the same reason.

2. Increase tire pressures to 50PSI. This will prevent flatspotting and leaks. The tire pressure will drop with ambient temp. Some will say to put the car on blocks, but with modern independent suspension, it's not good to leave it 'unsprung' for long periods. If you want to get really anal, fill the tires with Nitrogen. This is a Dry Gas and will prevent Dry Rot. Nitrogen can be obtained from any welding supply.

3. Store desiccants in the car. These can be purchased and laid on the floor front/back. This prevents mildew from growing and keeps leather from deteriorating due to accumulated moisture. Also, add an open Box of Baking Soda to absorb any odors which may accumulate. The 'Car Cacoons' currently being sold are very good for long term storage and use only a couple bucks electricity the entire season, also reduces door dings and the like. Absent this, use a quality car Cover.

4. Wash the car - don't allow pollution, Tree Sap etc. to work on the paint through the winter.

5. Remove battery from the car and put on a maintainer, preferably inside where it's warm. Be sure to allow plenty of ventilation to prevent Hydrogen Gas buildup.

6. Place the car on a sheet of Vinyl laid out on the garage floor. Make sure the vinyl extends 2 feet from any edge of the car. Garage floors seep moisture through the winter which can condense on the underside of the car, suspension, etc. causing corrosion.

7. Fill Gas Tank with Fresh, Premium fuel. A partial tank will corrode from moist air. Plus, it'll probably be cheaper than filling it next season. Use a stabilizer if you choose, but with Premium Gas, it's usually not necessary. If using a stabilizer, only add it when refueling so it thoroughly mixes with the gas, then run the car home so that the stabilzer can also work it's way through the entire fuel system.

8 Check Anti-freeze to be sure sufficient for temps anticipated.

9. Leave the car out of gear and with the Handbrake Off. If your garage is not level, or you worry about the car being 'rolled', place a brick under the front tire to prevent the car from rolling. Emergency Brake system and Calipers have been known to seize over a season of non-use. If they are engaged, it can be very difficult to dis-engage them (you may need to disassemble the caliper or mechanism to free it). On the other hand, if they are dis-engaged and seize, the hydraulic pressure and/or mechanical advantage of a cable/lever system is often enough to loosen them up again.

10. It may also help to place a couple of Mouse Traps strategically under the car, such as where the exhaust outlet(s), Frame openings, etc. are located. This can prevent something from Moving In to your car over the season. Mice will eat Plastic, Leather and Rubber, in addition to making a mess in general.

[Eurotrash8]

When you guys say maintainer, is that Canadian English for a trickle charger?

[Eurotrash8]

Originally Posted by drburton

Having a Boxster which has been stored over Minnesota winters, I have some experience with this. This was written by someone on a Boxster forum (don't recall who).

1. Change the oil just prior to storage. Oil absorbes moisture (a natural byproduct of combustion) and if old oil is left in the motor, moisture will evaporate out of the oil and condense on the engine internals causing corrosion. Also, oil becomes acidic with use and should be changed for this reason also. Change oil, start engine and run just long enough for the oil to circulate, then shut off for the season to prevent a buildup of moisture. If planning to change the tranny fluid in the coming season, it's also a good idea to do this now for basically the same reason.

2. Increase tire pressures to 50PSI. This will prevent flatspotting and leaks. The tire pressure will drop with ambient temp. Some will say to put the car on blocks, but with modern independent suspension, it's not good to leave it 'unsprung' for long periods. If you want to get really anal, fill the tires with Nitrogen. This is a Dry Gas and will prevent Dry Rot. Nitrogen can be obtained from any welding supply.

3. Store desiccants in the car. These can be purchased and laid on the floor front/back. This prevents mildew from growing and keeps leather from deteriorating due to accumulated moisture. Also, add an open Box of Baking Soda to absorb any odors which may accumulate. The 'Car Cacoons' currently being sold are very good for long term storage and use only a couple bucks electricity the entire season, also reduces door dings and the like. Absent this, use a quality car Cover.

4. Wash the car - don't allow pollution, Tree Sap etc. to work on the paint through the winter.

5. Remove battery from the car and put on a maintainer, preferably inside where it's warm. Be sure to allow plenty of ventilation to prevent Hydrogen Gas buildup.

6. Place the car on a sheet of Vinyl laid out on the garage floor. Make sure the vinyl extends 2 feet from any edge of the car. Garage floors seep moisture through the winter which can condense on the underside of the car, suspension, etc. causing corrosion.

7. Fill Gas Tank with Fresh, Premium fuel. A partial tank will corrode from moist air. Plus, it'll probably be cheaper than filling it next season. Use a stabilizer if you choose, but with Premium Gas, it's usually not necessary. If using a stabilizer, only add it when refueling so it thoroughly mixes with the gas, then run the car home so that the stabilzer can also work it's way through the entire fuel system.

8 Check Anti-freeze to be sure sufficient for temps anticipated.

9. Leave the car out of gear and with the Handbrake Off. If your garage is not level, or you worry about the car being 'rolled', place a brick under the front tire to prevent the car from rolling. Emergency Brake system and Calipers have been known to seize over a season of non-use. If they are engaged, it can be very difficult to dis-engage them (you may need to disassemble the caliper or mechanism to free it). On the other hand, if they are dis-engaged and seize, the hydraulic pressure and/or mechanical advantage of a cable/lever system is often enough to loosen them up again.

10. It may also help to place a couple of Mouse Traps strategically under the car, such as where the exhaust outlet(s), Frame openings, etc. are located. This can prevent something from Moving In to your car over the season. Mice will eat Plastic, Leather and Rubber, in addition to making a mess in general.

Awesome info Dr B

[M2381]

Originally Posted by drburton

Having a Boxster which has been stored over Minnesota winters, I have some experience with this. This was written by someone on a Boxster forum (don't recall who).

1. Change the oil just prior to storage. Oil absorbes moisture (a natural byproduct of combustion) and if old oil is left in the motor, moisture will evaporate out of the oil and condense on the engine internals causing corrosion. Also, oil becomes acidic with use and should be changed for this reason also. Change oil, start engine and run just long enough for the oil to circulate, then shut off for the season to prevent a buildup of moisture. If planning to change the tranny fluid in the coming season, it's also a good idea to do this now for basically the same reason.

2. Increase tire pressures to 50PSI. This will prevent flatspotting and leaks. The tire pressure will drop with ambient temp. Some will say to put the car on blocks, but with modern independent suspension, it's not good to leave it 'unsprung' for long periods. If you want to get really anal, fill the tires with Nitrogen. This is a Dry Gas and will prevent Dry Rot. Nitrogen can be obtained from any welding supply.

3. Store desiccants in the car. These can be purchased and laid on the floor front/back. This prevents mildew from growing and keeps leather from deteriorating due to accumulated moisture. Also, add an open Box of Baking Soda to absorb any odors which may accumulate. The 'Car Cacoons' currently being sold are very good for long term storage and use only a couple bucks electricity the entire season, also reduces door dings and the like. Absent this, use a quality car Cover.

4. Wash the car - don't allow pollution, Tree Sap etc. to work on the paint through the winter.

5. Remove battery from the car and put on a maintainer, preferably inside where it's warm. Be sure to allow plenty of ventilation to prevent Hydrogen Gas buildup.

6. Place the car on a sheet of Vinyl laid out on the garage floor. Make sure the vinyl extends 2 feet from any edge of the car. Garage floors seep moisture through the winter which can condense on the underside of the car, suspension, etc. causing corrosion.

7. Fill Gas Tank with Fresh, Premium fuel. A partial tank will corrode from moist air. Plus, it'll probably be cheaper than filling it next season. Use a stabilizer if you choose, but with Premium Gas, it's usually not necessary. If using a stabilizer, only add it when refueling so it thoroughly mixes with the gas, then run the car home so that the stabilzer can also work it's way through the entire fuel system.

8 Check Anti-freeze to be sure sufficient for temps anticipated.

9. Leave the car out of gear and with the Handbrake Off. If your garage is not level, or you worry about the car being 'rolled', place a brick under the front tire to prevent the car from rolling. Emergency Brake system and Calipers have been known to seize over a season of non-use. If they are engaged, it can be very difficult to dis-engage them (you may need to disassemble the caliper or mechanism to free it). On the other hand, if they are dis-engaged and seize, the hydraulic pressure and/or mechanical advantage of a cable/lever system is often enough to loosen them up again.

10. It may also help to place a couple of Mouse Traps strategically under the car, such as where the exhaust outlet(s), Frame openings, etc. are located. This can prevent something from Moving In to your car over the season. Mice will eat Plastic, Leather and Rubber, in addition to making a mess in general.

Yup, think you pretty much covered everything

[ideliver]

Jesus...wouldn't it just be easier to drive the car once or twice a month???

Surely there must be a sunny day with dry roads every now and then...

But to each his own...

[MTROIS]

This thread is amazing!! i was just about to ask a question on this very topic!!!.... you guys are simply too good!!

[Deda]

Originally Posted by ideliver

Jesus...wouldn't it just be easier to drive the car once or twice a month???

Surely there must be a sunny day with dry roads every now and then...

But to each his own...

+1 agree!

[nd54]

Yeah but there is tons of gravel which every other car will fling onto your hood and/or windshield, not to mention the roads are covered with salt. Not a good combination.

Originally Posted by ideliver

Jesus...wouldn't it just be easier to drive the car once or twice a month???

Surely there must be a sunny day with dry roads every now and then...

But to each his own...

[sparkyg]

The problem I find driving in winter is the inner city hwys like Henday or Deerfoot that are covered in gravel etc. That causes all the chips.

GL. I am still waiting on news on my possible '08 E90.

PS. How about them Flames.

[montreal red]

dont run the fuel till its almost empty... store at full tank and stabilize... you dont want your fuel tank to corrode on the inside....

oh and a trickle charger like battery tender is amazing... i have one by another brand. you dont have to leave it connected to the car all the time if you dont want to but perhaps once every 10days or so, leave the charger in overnight.

i was also afraid of flatspotting so i actually jacked the car up and left it on jackstands. i didnt jack it up too high - just enough to clear the jackstand. this way if someone bangs into the car and it falls off the stands, it wont come crashing down...however after reading this thread and seeing that other people have maxed their pressure on the tires and not experience flat spotting, i might try that trick.

[Eurotrash8]

Originally Posted by nd54

Yeah but there is tons of gravel which every other car will fling onto your hood and/or windshield, not to mention the roads are covered with salt. Not a good combination.

+1. We live in a very different climate than most US states.

Like nd54 said if we take out our cars for a short drive our newly Zainoed/waxed car would be covered in dirt and salt making us have to wash it in +5 or 0 degree weather........no thanks.

PS nd we need to get together when you get your car back from RD in Cali

[Eurotrash8]

Originally Posted by sparkyg

The problem I find driving in winter is the inner city hwys like Henday or Deerfoot that are covered in gravel etc. That causes all the chips.

GL. I am still waiting on news on my possible '08 E90.

PS. How about them Flames.

Exactly, thats why Im not driving my M in the winter. Its just not worth the rocks flying on my hood, windshield, etc.

I was actually raised in Etown and only moved to Calgary 2yrs ago. So Im pretty sure I hate the Flames more than you

[MWorldorder]

Thank God I live in L.A.!

[Sedan_Clan]

Originally Posted by ///MWorld

Thank God I live in L.A.!

+2

[nd54]

Originally Posted by Eurotrash8

+1. We live in a very different climate than most US states.

Like nd54 said if we take out our cars for a short drive our newly Zainoed/waxed car would be covered in dirt and salt making us have to wash it in +5 or 0 degree weather........no thanks.

PS nd we need to get together when you get your car back from RD in Cali

I'll be in touch as soon as it's back! We'll go tear up some country roads. Or cruise slowly down 17th and rev the engine in front of every patio .

Originally Posted by sparkyg

PS. How about them Flames.

Ouch.