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      12-14-2008, 09:35 PM   #1
SpeedballTrix
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Question about JB3 PinOut vs PnP

This may seem stupid but why is the Plug and Play version so much more expensive? The only difference is that they solder the connector on for you, right? Or is is that with the pinout version you have to splice the JB3s outputs into the stock ECU?
I have no experience with installing piggybacks but I have extensive experience with electronics (I currently work as a waveguide technician).
If I had the physical connector I could just solder it up myself in like 20 minutes. It's what, 30 or 40 wires? Why is it nearly twice as much, then?
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      12-14-2008, 09:43 PM   #2
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There are more than 30-40 wires, more like 100 of them. There are only 11 wires JB3 need to splice, but you've to make a connector to fit the ECU, that's where the annoying part is.
if you're good with electronics, go with the pin out and make one on your own. it's not that difficult, just pain in the ass to make one.
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      12-15-2008, 08:32 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedballTrix View Post
This may seem stupid but why is the Plug and Play version so much more expensive? The only difference is that they solder the connector on for you, right? Or is is that with the pinout version you have to splice the JB3s outputs into the stock ECU?
I have no experience with installing piggybacks but I have extensive experience with electronics (I currently work as a waveguide technician).
If I had the physical connector I could just solder it up myself in like 20 minutes. It's what, 30 or 40 wires? Why is it nearly twice as much, then?
The PnP is the exact same thing as the Pin-Out with the addition of the harness. You can always buy the Pin-Out and try to install and if you feel uncomfortable, you can always order the PnP harness seperatelly. Will come out to the same price.

ITs not very difficult. I would argue the most difficult part is getting into the compartment and popping the connectors out. As for popping the pins out.. Its not hard at all. There are 10 or 11 pins you need to remove depending on witch model (pre29.2 or post 29.2) you have.

Hope that cleared things up a bit for you.

Mike
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      12-15-2008, 04:35 PM   #4
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I guess a better way to ask this question is: When you order the pinout version do they give you a blank connector that you solder and then plug in? Or do you just get wires that have to be individually spliced into the stock wires.
So, is the JB3 unit being soldered into the stock ECU wiring requiring desoldering to remove or do you end up with a connector that can be removed when you want to remove the unit?

As I said, Ive been working with electronics professionally for about 4 years now and at home for like ten, so I'm no stranger to a soldering iron.
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      12-15-2008, 04:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedballTrix View Post
I guess a better way to ask this question is: When you order the pinout version do they give you a blank connector that you solder and then plug in? Or do you just get wires that have to be individually spliced into the stock wires.
So, is the JB3 unit being soldered into the stock ECU wiring requiring desoldering to remove or do you end up with a connector that can be removed when you want to remove the unit?

As I said, Ive been working with electronics professionally for about 4 years now and at home for like ten, so I'm no stranger to a soldering iron.


There's no soldering involved. You push the existing pins out of the factory connector, and the JB attaches to them. Then there will be another wire coming from the JB that goes back into the factory harness, but the pins are already crimped on.
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      12-15-2008, 04:53 PM   #6
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No cutting or soldiering is required with the pin-out harness. You remove the individual wires with female connectors from the factory wiring harness going to the ECU and and plug them individually into wires with male pins to provide input to the JB3. Output from the JB3 then goes back to ECU via individual wires with female connectors that plug back into the vacated positions in the wiring harness.
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      12-15-2008, 05:01 PM   #7
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Oh wow... that's crazy easy.
Then I definitely fail to understand why they get another $300 to do that for you. Personally Ill save the $300 and do it myself.

This is definitely on my christmas list, then =D

Thanks for the info, guys.
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      12-15-2008, 06:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedballTrix View Post
Oh wow... that's crazy easy.
Then I definitely fail to understand why they get another $300 to do that for you. Personally Ill save the $300 and do it myself.

This is definitely on my christmas list, then =D

Thanks for the info, guys.

On the plug and play version they have to extend the entire wiring harness. There's probably at least 100 pins that have to be crimped and inserted. The real advantage is that you can remove it very quickly, and that's what people are paying for I think.

I'm probably going to go with the pin out version myself.
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      12-15-2008, 06:51 PM   #9
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The PnP simplifies removal and install. It basically mimics the BMW harness so there is no pin-extraction. The real benefit is that you can remove and re-install very quickly if you have to bring it in for service, etc..

The pin-out takes a little more time but definitely not to hard. If you are even semi-comfortable with working on the car the pin-out is an easy undertaking

If you check out the BMS website you can see a video demoing the install.

Mike
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      12-16-2008, 04:09 PM   #10
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"If you check out the BMS website you can see a video demoing the install."
Sweet, Ill definately check that out.

Has anyone tried casting a mating connector for this?
If I could get my hands on a blank stock ECU side connector and a blank JB3 connector I could cast th female end out of Epon at work. I cast adaptors for my own use for testing units at work any time I come upon a circuit I haven't already made one for. This way once I could plug-and-play-ify the pinout.

Ill definitely check out that video, though. Thanks.
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      12-16-2008, 04:44 PM   #11
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The ECU subconnectors should be pretty commonly available. You just need to know the number of pins needed for each connector. Likewise, the male/female pins should also be pretty common. Somebody who works in electronics should be able to find them and there shouldn't be a need to cast any of the parts yourself.
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