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07-26-2009, 08:58 PM | #1 |
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Clutch stop mod- added
So, I was at the hardware store (Menards) yesterday rifling through all the various hardware to find a way to make a "clutch stop".
I wanted to reduce the amount of OEM clutch travel, and I did it. I had done this on my E46 as well, but it was much easier to do on that car. I can take some pics of what I used if anyone is interested. But, now that I have this setup, I may try to find a different way to make it easier to adjust. I think I can make this work with just 2 pieces from the hardware store. One is the rubber stop that has a hold through it, the other is a metal strip wrapped in rubber. The only problem is that the hole is 1/4" and the bolt from the stopper is a tad larger. I think I'm going to drill out the 2 holes of the metal strap, and then I can use the bolt/nut that comes with the rubber stopper. It will be easier to attach and adjust. I'll try to get that done tomorrow if I have time. The results: Clutch travel has nicely been reduced, maybe about 1". You have to adjust the pedal so that the clutch switch, which allows the starter to start, is still engaged. That position and the clutch friction position are very close, but there is fiddle room to get it right. For me the lesser clutch travel has made driving position more comfortable. I can now adjust my seat back an additional 1", which is much more comfortable to me, while still being able to push the clutch in. I'm getting used to it, but I think I may need to give it about 1/4" more as I'm just on the clutch switch activation point. The stop I made has a little give to it, and to start the engine I have to push the pedal just a bit harder to get the engine to start. From there it's very nice. Some may not like it as the friction point is almost right off the floor now. But, I think once I adjust it about 1/4" more it will be just right. Shifts are the same as before except for reduced clutch travel, which I like. I do think this mod may be better if the CDV were removed. Anyway, I'll have to drive it a few days to get a feel for it as it is different. I know this is worthless without pic's, but I'll try to get them posted soon, maybe tomorrow. |
07-26-2009, 09:06 PM | #2 |
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Looking forward to seeing the pics
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07-26-2009, 09:35 PM | #3 |
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My brain is going crazy trying to figure out what your set-up looks like lol.
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07-26-2009, 09:57 PM | #4 |
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You mentioned a more comfortable driving position. I have some issues with the clutch position and my optimal seat positions and am really interested in seeing your pics to replicate this mod.
My previous car was a golf with really long clutch travel as well so I may not be used to the shorter travel but I am sure that if the seat position is better I will quickly get used to it.
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07-26-2009, 10:07 PM | #5 |
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I came form an 06 civic si and the steering wheel in the Si seemed to adjust outward (toward me) a lot more than the 1er does. So sitting back further doesn't bring you too far away from the wheel? It does for me. Lemme know when you got a fix for that!
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07-26-2009, 10:38 PM | #6 | |
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i am very interested to see this, however, i love the way the clutch feels
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07-26-2009, 10:50 PM | #7 |
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+1 I am not quite as tall, 5'10" but I do have to adjust my seat much higher and I actually have to tilt it forward one notch to make the clutch feel more comfortable. Lower sitting position and one notch of tilt would allow the seat to hold me more.
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07-27-2009, 12:31 AM | #8 |
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yeah, i completely agree. for me the problem when i am down on the ground in the seat, is that i have longer legs and with the seat low, i cant see the screens on the ODO that has info. and if lower the steering wheel any from the top, my knees wont fit to the break and clutch. so therefore i found with my manual seats that if i raise the seat pitching the back forward a little more, i can see the dials and actually use the clutch smoother.
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09-01-2009, 01:09 AM | #9 |
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Any additional info every come from this mod?
Seems like a simple DIY but I hate having to re-invent the wheel and would rather work with the community to perfect a nice little clutch stop mod.
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09-01-2009, 06:17 AM | #11 |
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After driving around the 1er for months, It takes a while for me to adjust back to the insta-grab of the Civic Si clutch, or Honda clutches in general. My BMW clutch is softer though!
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09-01-2009, 07:08 AM | #12 |
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great project!
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09-01-2009, 07:29 AM | #13 |
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Surprised you were able to get this to consistently work on the e82. On both of my e46's, this was one of the first things I would mod. On my e90, I was not able to do this because of the clutch pedal position sensor not allowing the car to start (even with just a small amount of adjustment).
For this reason, I didn't even try to do this mod on my e82, knowing the e90 parts are the same. I'm interested in seeing pictures of this. They are easy to make, with a piece of threaded coupling, a piece of threaded rod, and a lock nut. I'm fairly skeptical that you could start your car with any consistency, based on my past experiences. |
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09-01-2009, 08:40 AM | #14 |
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I cant wait to see pics and a parts list with diagrams and pictures
this car screams for a clutch stop, there's way too much over extension
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09-02-2009, 05:23 PM | #15 |
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Absolutely - using the clutch is more of a chore than it should be due to the fact that I literally have to reposition my foot at each shift... I miss my old car's short clutch that you could actuate with just a simple pivot of the heel (much like you do with the right foot and gas pedal). I almost feel like I have to give the clutch a small kick to get to the bottom of travel.
Pics and write-up please! |
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09-06-2009, 01:08 AM | #16 | |
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I thought there wasn't much interest, but I guess there is. I'll try to post up the pics tomorrow. The E46 was easier to make a stop for as it had the threads needed in the floor, so you could thread into that point and work from there. The 1 is not so elegant in getting a stop on there. My stop is still there, but I do get a bit of slip over time. I need to get back down there and tighten it up a bit more. I've been able to start the car every time, once the stop is set. The other nice thing about the stop I made is that it has some play in it due to the use of rubber in 2 locations. If you're right on the verge of no start, just push a bit harder to hit the point, and it fires right up. The one issue I have though, is that if I set the stop to it's limit, meaning a no start position due to the clutch start switch, the pedal takes on a somewhat "deal" feel. It's a bit hard to explain, you'd have to feel it. But, the spring return is set to have longer travel, so when the travel is shortened there is an odd feel as the spring doesn't get stretched past a certain point where you feel this "release" from it. So, I just gave back a bit of travel to get a good feel again. Maybe I should try a shorter travel again and see if I can get used to it. In my 1 I can remove quite a bit of travel and the switch is still functioning. But at that point the clutch friction point is right there, I mean right off the stop. The first time I experienced it I was like, "whoa, there's no neutral here at all", the clutch grabs right away. I had to back it off because I wanted just a wee bit of "freeplay". You'll all know what I mean once you make one and test it out. Once you see how I made it, I'm sure some of you will find a different way to make one. Either you'll like mine or you'll get inspired and make a better one. If you do, make sure to show me too. Or, you won't like the feel and go back to stock. Our 1 clutch pedal isn't as long in travel as the E46 is, so there isn't as much to play with, but what is there can be useful for some I'm sure. The added bonus is in shift speed. With the short travel you can really speed up the overall shift time, however, I couldn't tell you exactly how much as it depends on your technique and manual trans ability. Anyway, I guess I better get the pictures up since it seems some are interested in it. Check back tomorrow afternoon. |
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09-06-2009, 01:11 AM | #17 | |
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However, its' nice to have a stop so that while you don't have to think about how far to push, you just do and the stop stops the travel for you. |
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09-06-2009, 01:27 AM | #18 |
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after driving my car for a while, i have really long legs, so i find that the clutch travel isnt that far and is pretty comfortable to work
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09-07-2009, 07:07 PM | #19 |
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Ok.
So here are some picts. [IMG]file:///C:/Users/Tome/Desktop/CS135i.jpg[/IMG] The 3rd pict shows the stop in profile. It's made of the metal & rubber holder, which fits around the clutch pedal lever. The rubber stop. The long threaded bolt. And the nuts. The rubber stop has a hole in it, the threaded bolt goes through the rubber stop. The bolt has a rounded/flat end that fits against the rubber stop. There is a nut that holds the bolt to the stop. There are 2 nuts in the middle, one on either side of the holder, to hold it in place. Those nuts are used to adjust and hold the bolts length. You loosen the nuts, then turn the bolt to move the rubber stop to the desired position, the tighten both nuts to hold it in place. The rubber holder is nice as it doesn't cut into the clutch lever, but it also also some movement, so it's not as solid as I would like it, but it was a compromise. I think that you could also use something like electrical tape to keep the holder from cutting into the clutch lever and it should make for a more solid connection. I may try that at some other time. Over time the rubber surround holder does tend to give and then the clutch travel extends. So either the tape trick or maybe just tighten up the nuts even more. So, that's the general idea. Some of you may get an inspiration from it and make a better one. If you do post it up. When figuring out the distance, keep the nuts not so tight that way you can test for travel and adjustment so that the start switch is engaged. If you adjust the stop too short, your engine won't start. But, by having some play in the rubber parts, you can push harder than normal to just get past the switch point and it will start. Then you can use it normally. Also, you'll have to try different settings due to how the clutch will feel. You'll know what I mean once you try it. Depending on your particular from factory settings you'll have to get a feel for how the overall shifts feel as well. You'll have to get used to timing your shifts as well, as the shorter pedal travel means you'll have to speed up your shifting to avoid grinding and such. Shortening the travel does give you the opportunity to shift faster as you remove the amount of distance, and thus time, it takes for the clutch to engage the flywheel. Depending on how you set it up, it'll be more like "speed shifting" but with using the clutch, so you won't have to feel/guess on how far to push the clutch pedal to make the shift. Even in stock mode, if you push the pedal just enough to disengage the clutch from the flywheel you can speed shift, as you don't have to push the pedal all the way in. With the stop you can adjust it so that you can do this without guessing or having feel of where that is. I tried setting the travel to it's shortest limit, just at the point where it will start, and the feel of the pedal is very odd, and you have to be really fast on the shift. Also, you'll have to readjust how you take off from a stop as the friction point is right NOW with nearly no pedal travel. At first you may actual stall due to how quick the clutch engages off the stop. Try it and try some different positions. Post back what you find. This tip is being offered only as something that I've tried, and of course, there are no implications that this work for you, nor do I say you should do this. Whatever you do to your car is by your own decision and I take no responsibility whatsoever in any decision you make about what to do to your car. |
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09-07-2009, 08:20 PM | #20 |
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hmm, that's a different way of doing it, I bet somebody can fab up a professional mount
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09-08-2009, 09:59 PM | #21 | |
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One option is to drill right through the pedel lever, and attached the stop right through it. It would be much strong and sturdier and easier to adjust. But, I didn't want to drill. Those of you that don't mind drilling, that would make an excellent method. The other idea was to find a clamp the would go around the lever and allow the stop to be mounted perpendicular, in the center, of the lever. I couldn't find a mount like that. I remember some older hose clamps that would take a bolt in the center that would tighten the clamp. I was hoping to find one to see if I could get it to work. But, I think the lever would get in the way there. Drilling it makes for the best method. The side method I used work pretty good actually, as long as you find a way to securely tighten the clamp. If someone can fabricate something using this idea, that would be great. In my E46 it was much easier to make the stop as you simply used the threaded hole from the stock clutch stop. Find a bolt that fit that hole, get a rubber stop, some nuts to hold the stop in place and you just tighten the bolt in or out to get the right distance. I was dismayed to find that BMW simply used the inside firewall as the clutch "stop". I hope someone tries this. I'd like to get your impressions. I don't have a parts list as I threw away the receipt. I made this thing back in July. But, all the parts came from Menards, so if you take the pict with you you should be able to find what you need, if not the exact same parts, then at least something like them. If you find something better please post. Oh, and getting those picts resulted in my stop getting loosened, so now I have to get in there and reset it. I hope you guys are happy! I kid, I kid. |
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09-09-2009, 08:57 AM | #22 |
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Thanks for taking those pics! It looks like that you could twist that setup fairly easily, by pressing on the pedal at the stop. You have no problems starting the car though???
I may pick up some aluminum bar stock to see if a fitted aluminum clamp can be made to go around that pedal armature. Tap a hole on the back side of the clamp and put the stop in that.... |
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