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07-12-2011, 12:11 AM | #1 |
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Engine stuttering during startup
Hi guys,
Started about 3 months ago, I noticed a weird engine stuttering problem during startup. It's best explained with a video, as you can see below, I pressed the startup button at 0:05, and the engine struggled to start, but really didn't fully kick in until around 0:13, a full 8 seconds later. This only happens during cold startup in the morning, and seems to get worse the longer the car sits. The video was shot on Monday, which takes around 8 seconds after sitting for the weekends, on Tuesdays through Fridays, it's a bit shorter at around 5 seconds. Any advises appreciated. |
07-12-2011, 01:24 AM | #2 |
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That does not seem good. and the temp is around 68 so it is not terribly cold.
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07-12-2011, 07:40 AM | #4 |
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Plus one. The longer mine sits the quicker (and louder) it seems to roar to life. Will videotape a 7 day cold start tonight.
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07-12-2011, 10:25 AM | #5 |
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OP might be having ignition problems? Usually when a car stutters, a bad plug wire or plugs, in my experience. I would check the electrical stuff on it. Deff. take it to the dealer, as it can be replicated and they can run the computer to see if the ECU has any faults saved.
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07-12-2011, 10:57 AM | #7 |
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Bad idle valve for starters. Once engine starts, revs shouldn't dip, like your engine did twice. However, I've never seen an engine struggle so much to start, even with a bad idle valve , so you could have 2nd issue. Normally I'd advice you to wait until you get the 'christmas tree' of lights since most dealers won't touch the car without codes, but that amount of cranking is just not right. But one thing I'd do before anything else is to fully charge the battery and see if it goes away. It's rare to have an issue (idle valve, bad spark plug, etc) that causes such a long cranking and no CEL, low battery warning, etc. Hopefully recharging the battery will lower your cranking times so you could wait for a CEL before wasting your time with a dealer.
By the way, what year is your car? I see you have 27K+ miles. If an '08, you're way overdue for a new idle valve . Good luck man, and keep us posted. |
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07-12-2011, 11:09 AM | #8 |
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I call bad idle control valve.
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07-12-2011, 11:18 AM | #9 |
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it's a idle air control valve issue when his idle dips or over time he can't hold the idle. Hence that's why I asked if his idle dips, or is it strong after the initial startup.
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07-12-2011, 12:47 PM | #10 | |
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This also seems to only happen after sitting overnight, as the car starts up okay when I go home at night after parked at work for 8~9 hours. If it's a weak battery, I would experience this everytime, no? |
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07-12-2011, 12:53 PM | #11 | ||
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When this happens, idle does stay rough a bit, but after around 7 to 10 seconds or so, it does keep a pretty good smooth idle after that. If it's indeed an idle valve issue, I assume I would never go back to a smooth idle even after 10 seconds? The engine also feels the same smoothness when driving, that's why so far I've not suspecting it to be bad spark plugs yet. Quote:
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07-12-2011, 12:55 PM | #12 |
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32K miles and no idle control valve! Cause I drive my car like a fuckin MAN. lol
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07-12-2011, 01:16 PM | #13 | |
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If it's indeed the IAC, should I not be able to hold the idle at all even after it warms up after a few seconds? |
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07-12-2011, 07:40 PM | #14 |
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That's how it starts to go south. You should be greeted with the 'christmas tree' soon. And when you eventually do, you can still usually reset them a couple of times with an ignition cycle, so you know. After that, warnings won't go away until replaced. I'd like to know exactly what goes wrong with that darn thing, but nobody knows . Good luck.
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12-04-2011, 08:57 PM | #15 |
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I am having the same issues. Started with the flux & dealer replaced the idle valve. That didn't fix it, but had me take it home & run BMW fuel additive in it. Did this for 1/2 a tank & then I said they had to take it back cuz every time the car sits for 4 hours or so, it cranks for 8-10 seconds...then stumbles, sometimes worse than before. They took it back for a week & said it's probably bad gas. I always use the same shell gas station & highest octain. They said use lower octain cuz maybe the higher octain is older gas & causing the starting problems.
So, I have the car back & have filled it with lower octain. Any other thoughts? Jun 09 build with with 16k mls. Thanks REG
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12-04-2011, 09:13 PM | #16 |
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That is the laziest fix I have ever heard from a dealer and no offense but you really just took that advice? Clearly its not a bad gas issue! Cars do not crank for 10 seconds because of bad gas! A car may run more roughly or idle roughly but it aint going to cause a long crank. Dealer at its worst there
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12-04-2011, 10:35 PM | #17 |
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12-05-2011, 02:19 AM | #18 |
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Does not seem to be the battery to me at all..
Check the voltage of course, make sure you have atleast 12V with the car off, 14+ on. Has to be an issue with a crank or cam position sensor, or an issue with fuel delivery or ignition. Car turns over strong, it's just not firing up as it should.
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